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Writer's pictureLyn (aka Jazz)

BC Road Trip Itinerary: Haida Gwaii

Lost in the mists of time, Haida Gwaii, a mystical archipelago off the coast of British Columbia, calls to travellers with its raw beauty and rich cultural heritage. This remote destination is shrouded in legend and offers a unique opportunity to connect with nature and the depths of Haida culture. On this seven-day road trip, you'll find windswept beaches, ancient forests, and serene coastal villages, each bringing a new adventure, from hiking to historic sites to kayaking through crystal-clear waters.


Today's post collects all the information I've shared in previous, more detailed posts on specific areas to explore. Please follow the links for those details. During this visit, I did not get to the remote southern islands, mainly due to my travel companion's limited time and tight budget, so this post focuses on activities on Graham Island, the more populated and accessible island. I will return to Haida Gwaii to explore those islands in the future.

A close up of a single bear figure on a totem pole with peeling paint of green, black, and red
A totem at the Haida Heritage Centre

 

Table of Contents

 

Timing Your Haida Gwaii Road Trip

For the optimal Haida Gwaii experience, plan your visit during the summer months (June to August). The summer boasts more pleasant weather, ideal for outdoor adventures. Ferry schedules are also more frequent, making it easier to plan your adventures.


Summer in Haida Gwaii is mild, with average temperatures ranging from 15°C (59°F) to 20°C (68°F). While rain showers are common, especially in the evening, the days are often sunny and ideal for outdoor activities.


a tranquil, weed-covered lake shore with tall trees at the shoreline.
Pure Lake Provincial Park near Masset

If you prefer a quieter experience, consider visiting during the shoulder seasons of spring (April-May) and fall (September-October). While the weather may be less predictable, with potential rain showers, the still mild temperatures and fewer crowds may be just what you are looking for. However, be mindful of potential ferry schedule changes and cancellations due to marine conditions during these times.


Spring and fall offer a more temperate climate, with average temperatures ranging from 5°C (41°F) to 15°C (59°F). Rainfall increases during these seasons, especially in the fall.


How to Get To Haida Gwaii

Ferry: The most common way to reach Haida Gwaii is by ferry. BC Ferries operates a route between Prince Rupert, BC, and Skidegate, Haida Gwaii. Round-trip ferry fares for a vehicle and passengers can range from $300 to $500, depending on vehicle size and season.

an outside seating area with rows of metal chairs and tables on the rear ferry deck looking back to Prince Rupert in the distance.
Enjoy the views on the long ferry ride from Prince Rupert

Air: For a quicker option, consider flying. Some airlines offer direct flights from Vancouver to Skidegate. Additionally, smaller airlines provide flights to Masset. Airfares can vary widely but expect to pay between $300 and $800 for a round-trip ticket, depending on the airline, route, season, and booking time. Be aware that public transportation on Haida Gwaii is sparse, so you will likely need to join group tours or rent a vehicle to explore fully. In my post "Planning a Visit to Haida Gwaii: What You Need to Know Before You Go," I discussed transportation options in greater detail.


Tips for Your Haida Gwaii Road Trip

The best tip I offer for potential Haida Gwaii visitors is to plan ahead. It is a more remote destination that requires planning. Many businesses on Haida Gwaii are small, family-owned businesses without dedicated web pages, making some pre-planning challenging. Leave room in your plans to discover these gems once you arrive.


Plan Ahead: Book your ferry tickets, tours, and accommodations well in advance, especially during peak season. Campers will find many public campgrounds are first-come-first-serve, so arrive at these sites as early as possible to secure your site before exploring further. It may be a challenge to find a site later in the day.

Respect Haida Culture: Adhere to cultural protocols and guidelines when visiting Haida communities and sacred sites. Check out the Haida Gwaii pledge to understand local Haida visitor expectations.

a graphic with a stunning photo of sunset on Skidegate Inlet with the words "I signed the Haida Gwaii Pledge"
Don't forget to sign the Haida Pledge

Pack for All Weather: Be prepared for unpredictable weather, including rain, wind, and sunshine. Pack layers, a waterproof jacket, and sturdy footwear. I visited in late July and experienced a lot of rain and a few chilly days. You will want to keep cozy while exploring.

Bring Essentials: Don't forget to pack insect repellent, sunscreen, a hat, and comfortable, waterproof walking shoes. If you are self-catering, consider picking up your groceries on the mainland for better prices and selection.

Bring a Vehicle: Bringing or renting a vehicle is the best way to explore the island at your own pace. You can save on ferry fares by travelling as a foot passenger and renting upon arrival. There are rental companies on Graham Island, but they tend to be small operations with limited inventory. You might be better off arranging your rental on the mainland.

A white high-top Sprinter campervan as seen from the back. There is a canopy hanging over the rear doors and a shade tent over the picnic table.
I'm biased but I think a campervan is the best way to explore.

Accommodations

Since driving from tip to tip of Graham Island takes just over an hour, I suggest choosing 1-2 places as a base for day trip explorations. I've included campgrounds and guesthouses in previous Haida Gwaii posts (linked within this post). Most accommodations on Haida Gwaii are small and intimate, so booking ahead is essential for a smooth experience.


On my next trip, I will likely choose a campground at Tow Hill for northern explorations and a guesthouse near Skidegate or Daajing Giids for any multi-day tours to the remote locations in the southern areas of the archipelago.


A Brief Overview of Haida History

Haida Gwaii, meaning "islands of the Haida," has been the home of the Haida people for thousands of years. Their spiritual beliefs and traditions reflect their deep connection to the land and sea. The Haida were renowned as skilled seafarers and traders, navigating the complex waters of the Pacific Northwest. They were known for their exquisite craftsmanship, particularly in wood carving and weaving. Totem poles, a signature of Haida art, serve as artistic expressions and historical records, telling the tales of clan affiliations and Haida myths.   

The top portion of a totem pole with weeds growing on the pole between the top guardian figures. An eagle is directly below. Beneath the eagle is a frog
This pole shows Haida guardians at the top, an eagle and a frog

The Haida society is matrilineal, with lineage traced through the mother's side. This social structure empowers women and gives them significant roles in decision-making and property ownership. However, the arrival of European settlers in the 18th century brought significant challenges to the Haida people. The introduction of diseases like smallpox decimated their population, and the imposition of colonial policies disrupted their traditional way of life. The fur trade and logging industry further threatened their lands and resources.   


Despite these hardships, the Haida people persevered and continue to revitalize their culture. Today, they are actively working to reclaim their heritage and protect their environment. Through art, language, and traditional practices, the Haida ensure their rich history and cultural legacy will endure for generations.


7-Day Itinerary



Day 1: Arrival in Skidegate

The daily ferry arrives in the late afternoon from Prince Rupert after an 8-hour journey. As the ferry docks in Skidegate (SKID-ah-gate), you'll be impressed by the beauty of Skidegate Inlet, with its scattered islands, stunning mountains, and forests as far as the eye can see.

A rocky beach covered with boulders with a small island in the middle ground and large mountains in the background on a cloudy day
Skidegate Inlet

Campers should head straight to the first-come-first-served Hayden Turner Campground. Set up camp, then explore the nearby trails. As the sun sets, build a campfire and roast some marshmallows. Due to the wet rainforest conditions, fire bans on Haida Gwaii are rare.

a late afternoon shot of still waters, log booms and pilings, with mountains in the background
The beach walk at Haydn Turner Campground

Non-campers should check into their accommodations and explore the area nearby. Walk along the waterfront and breathe in the fresh, clean air while you admire the stunning scenery.


Day 2: Exploring Skidegate

You'll find more details about these activities in my post, Exploring Skidegate.


Morning 

Start your day with a deep dive into Haida culture at the Haida Heritage Centre. Take time to explore the exhibits showcasing the rich Haida history and traditions. This is the best way to begin your trip to get the most out of your experience. Understanding the Haida's legends and beliefs will enrich your experience.

a large (20+ people) traditional Haida war canoe with black and white paintings of sea creatures on the sides, inside a large carving shed.
Check out the carving exhibition to see Haida canoes

Afternoon

Visit Balance Rock

After a morning of learning about Haida history, art, and traditions, head to Balance Rock, a natural marvel where a massive boulder precariously rests on the beach. Plan to take some time to peer into the tide pools and do some beachcombing.

The author pushing against a large boulder perched on a rocky beach
I tried but it doesn't even wiggle a little bit!
Hike the Spirit Lake Trail 

Get your first taste of Haida Gwaii's wilderness with a hike on the Spirit Lake Trail. Before heading up the trail, I urge you to read the interpretive signs at the trailhead to learn the legend of Waasgo, a sea monster who was half wolf and half orca and had a tunnel between its home in Spirit Lake and Skidegate Inlet.

A large wooden arch-like structure with a carving of the mythical Waasgo, a half wolf/half orca creature.
Trailhead marker with Waasgo
Walk through Skidegate Village

After hiking, head to Skidegate Village to check out Chief Wigaanad's totem. This is a significant totem because it was the first chief's pole to be erected after 100 years of settler history.

a new totem with an eagle at the top representing the local chief.
Chief Wigaanad's totem

Evening

For a unique culinary experience, visit Keenawaii's Restaurant in Skidegate. Led by Chef Keenawaii Roberta Olson, the restaurant offers a multi-course tasting menu featuring traditional Haida cuisine made from fresh, locally sourced ingredients. Keenawaii's Kitchen is a must-try for any foodie or explorer seeking an authentic Haida Gwaii experience. Reservations must be made in advance.


 For a more detailed review, you can check out Keenawaii's Kitchen on CanadaCulinary.com: Keenawaii's Kitchen | Canada Culinary


Day 3: Exploring Daajing Giids

For a more detailed look at Daajing Giids, (DAW-jing geeds) check out my post Exploring Daajing Giids, Tlell, and Port Clements.

A wooden sculpture of the head and fins of a humpback whale on rocky shore beside Skidegate Inlet
A humpback whale sculpture near the Visitor Centre in Daajing Giids

Morning

Drive to Daajing Giids, formerly known as Queen Charlotte City. Upon arrival, visit the village Visitor Centre to learn about the local culture and history. Take some time to explore the unique shops, where you can find handcrafted souvenirs and local art. I enjoyed following the self-guided History Walk suggested by the Visitor Centre.

a collection of potted pink and purple plants with a stone on a pedestal in the background
A pretty garden spotted in the village

Afternoon

Experienced hikers will enjoy the challenging but rewarding Sleeping Beauty Trail. This scenic hike offers breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape, including the iconic Sleeping Beauty Mountain. Be aware that the last section is a doozy of a scramble.

Evening

After a day of adventure, treat yourself to a delicious dinner at Sapporo's Japanese Restaurant. You'll enjoy authentic Japanese cuisine, including fresh sushi, ramen, and other delectable dishes.


Day 4: Exploring Port Clements and Tlell

Morning

Begin your day in the historic town of Port Clements. Embark on a leisurely walk along the Golden Spruce Trail, where you'll encounter the legend of the Golden Spruce as you walk amongst giant trees along the Yakoun River. Interpretive signs along the way speak to the visitor using the voice of the nature surrounding you.

a fallen "nurse" tree with ferns and small cedars growing on the top
The Golden Spruce Trail

Afternoon 

Continue your journey to Tlell, a picturesque coastal village. Explore the local art galleries, where you can admire the works of talented Haida artists. For a more active experience, join a kayak tour and paddle through local waters, surrounded by stunning coastal scenery. Chances are high that you will see much wildlife as you paddle.

A large boulder with bubbles of crystals on the surface
The Tlell Stone Circle

Evening

Conclude your day with a delicious dinner at Haida House. This cozy restaurant offers a warm and inviting atmosphere with a delicious locally-inspired menu.


Day 5: Exploring Masset and Old Masset

For more details on each of the activities, check out my post Exploring Masset and Old Masset.

Morning

Begin your day in Masset, the largest town on Haida Gwaii. Grab a coffee at the Ground Gallery and Coffee House, and then head to the Delkata Wildlife Sanctuary, where you can observe various migratory birds, including bald eagles and sandhill cranes.

a narrow harbour with fishing boats and a seaplane dock.
Masset Harbour

Afternoon

Make your way to Old Masset, a historic village with a rich cultural heritage. Visit the Haida Art Galleries to admire stunning works of art, walk along the picturesque waterfront, and watch eagles soar through the sky. Don't miss the opportunity to explore the Old Masset Cemetery for a fascinating glimpse into Haida memorials. It's also a great spot to view bald eagles.

A longhouse inspired building with Haida ravens painted on the walls on either side of the door. A woman is at the top of stairs about to enter.
Sarah's Haida Art Gallery

Evening

After a day of exploration, indulge in a delicious meal at Daddy Cools. This popular local restaurant offers a variety of dishes, from pub fare to gourmet meals. Depending on your preference, choose between the cozy dining room or the lively pub.


Campers might want to make a reservation at Hidden Island RV & Campground, a full-service campground with power, showers, laundry, and a small shop. Non-campers may enjoy staying in Old Masset at April's White Raven Gallery and Guesthouse.

a large multi-story shingled wooden house with large deck
The office and shop at Hidden Island RV Campground

Day 6: Exploring Tow Hill

Check out my post Exploring Tow Hill for greater detail about the activities listed below.

Morning

Start your day by driving to Naikoon Provincial Park. Find a cozy guesthouse along Tow Hill Road or get a campsite at the picturesque Agate Beach Campground. Plan to arrive before noon to ensure you get a campsite in this first-come-first-serve campground.

a steep pebbled beach with driftwood that rises to the edge of a forest on a foggy day
Foggy North (Agate) Beach

Afternoon

Embark on a rewarding hike to Tow Hill, a stunning volcanic plug rising straight from the beach. As you climb, you'll be rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the Dixon Entrance and learn some of the legends associated with this area. Take a moment to appreciate the expansive views in all directions and the fresh, clean air.

a steep boardwalk covered trail through a mossy wet rainforest
Tow Hill trail

Evening

After your hike, relax on the beautiful beach. Search for unique seashells or beautiful agates, and watch the sunset paint the sky with vibrant colours while listening to the soothing sounds of the waves. On clear days, you'll see the southern panhandle of Alaska in the distance. If the night is clear, head outside to stargaze without any urban glare.

a sunset through the clouds as seen from a rocky beach with a windswept tree to the left and grasses to the right
Sunset view from Agate Beach campground

Day 7: Exploring Rose Spit and Departure from Skidegate

Sadly, it's the final day, but there is plenty of time to explore before catching the overnight ferry back to Prince Rupert.

Morning

Wake up early and pack your bags to prepare for your departure from Haida Gwaii. Enjoy a last stroll along North Beach to fill your pockets with beachcombing souvenirs.

Afternoon

Before leaving, take a memorable excursion to Rose Spit, at the tip of Naikoon Provincial Park. You can walk or take an ATV beach tour to reach this stunning location. Enjoy the pristine beaches, spot marine wildlife, and soak in the peaceful atmosphere.

an expansive sandy beach with some people walking next to the waves
Enjoy the beach walk to Rose Spit

Evening

Return to Skidegate and board the ferry to Prince Rupert, carrying unforgettable memories of your Haida Gwaii adventure.


Final Thoughts

Haida Gwaii is more than just a destination; it's an experience that will stay with you forever. The moment you step foot on the islands, you'll be captivated by the raw beauty and rich cultural heritage. Whether you're seeking adventure, tranquillity, or cultural immersion, Haida Gwaii has something to offer everyone. While it does take some effort to get to this destination, it is well worth it.


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If you are interested in purchasing high-resolution copies of the photos in this post, contact me at ramblynjazz@gmail.com


9 Comments


Guest
a day ago

I’ve always admired how beautifully you've captured the essence of nature in your posts on Haida Gwaii, and this one is no exception! And the pictures are amazing as usual. Love this comprehensive road trip itinerary. This makes it very easy to dream and plan a trip to Haida Gwaii. Bidish

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Pam
2 days ago

It's nice to see your itinerary for Haida Gwaii all come together. I think mid spring would be best for me as I don't like the heat and get eaten alive by bugs haha. You've definitely put this hidden gem on my map and hopefully whenever I get to Vancouver I can explore here as well. Tow Hill and the museums do such a great job of showing the beauty and history of Haida Gwaii. Very cool!

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I like the way you started writing this entry in your series, as this place reminds me of an untouched environment that has still managed to evolve with the times. If I were to visit, I would probably aim for the shoulder seasons of mid-spring or mid-fall as I would agree that you still get some of the benefits of the summer season but far less crowds (and probably not as much in the way of insects either!) This was a good roundup itinerary of ideas with activities that have little to no cost, which is always a good thing! The scenery that was captured in the photos is really quite breathtaking.


www.redsolotraveler.com

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Emma Gilbert
Emma Gilbert
5 days ago

I've been looking forward to this post, and it didn't disappoint. Haida Gwaii looks so beautiful, and I don't think I'd care about a bit of rain as it looks like it would just add to the atmosphere in the area. So pretty. Good to know about the fire ban (or lack of), being around the lower mainland we seem to always have a ban. Seems like a trip might take some planning, but also some room for going with the flow. But totally worth it

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Lyn (aka Jazz)
Lyn (aka Jazz)
4 days ago
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Replying to

There's no doubt that Haida Gwaii is an island rainforest but it never rained for the full day and we didn't let it stop us from exploring. I was surprised to discover the lack of a fire ban as I had been seeing devastating fires on my journey this summer. I think you would really enjoy it!

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Carolin
Dec 06

An excellent parent post to round up all of your Haida Gwaii posts. Having read all of your previous more in-depth guides I appreciate the quick and information-packed summaries. This is a great overview for anyone wanting a detailed, yet not too overwhelming overview when planning a trip to the community. Once again, the remote location as well as its mystic landscape are very appealing to me. Let's hope it can retain its charm and character thanks to the regulation with the pledge.


Carolin | <a href="https://solotravelstory.com/">Solo Travel Story</a>

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