top of page
Writer's pictureLyn (aka Jazz)

Haida Gwaii Travel Guide: Exploring Daajing Giids, Tlell, and Port Clements

Updated: Nov 21

Haida Gwaii, where ancient forests whisper secrets of the past, the ocean roars with untamed power, lush rainforests are draped in moss, and rugged coastlines are battered by the Pacific. This is the land of the Haida people, whose art, storytelling, tradition, and spirituality connect. Come meander with me as I explore the communities of Daajing Giids, Tlell, and Port Clements.


In my previous posts, I’ve shared my adventures exploring the northern part of Haida Gwaii, including the vibrant towns of Skidegate, Masset, Old Masset, and the awe-inspiring Tow Hill. Now, it’s time to delve into the southern wonders of this enchanting archipelago.

a grassy bank in front of Skidegate Inlet with stormy skies
Daajing Giids

 

Table of Contents

 

Getting to Haida Gwaii

In a previous post, Planning A Visit to Haida Gwaii, I discussed how to get to Haida Gwaii and some of the pre-trip planning you'll need to visit this remote location.


You'll also want to check out my posts Exploring SkidegateExploring Masset, and Exploring Tow Hill for inspiration on why Haida Gwaii should be on your travel bucket list.



Time Needed

The driving time between Skidegate in the south and Masset in the North is about 1.5 hours, so it is entirely feasible to visit all three communities on the same day or as separate side trips from your Graham Island base. How much time you will devote to each area depends on your chosen activities. The next post in this series will be a 7-day Haida Gwaii Road Trip itinerary, so click the login button to subscribe for publishing notifications.



Daajing Giids

The settler history of the village of Daajing Giids, formerly Queen Charlotte City, is connected to the region's logging and fishing industries. Established in 1891, it became the first registered townsite in the islands in 1908. Due to an increased demand for lumber, the town grew during World War I.


Throughout the 1900s, logging and fishing were the primary industries, but recently tourism has been embraced. The village offers more common tourism services, including accommodations, restaurants, and shops. Many boat tours (including those going to Gwaii Hanaas National Park on Moresby Island), kayak excursions, and hiking adventures begin here.


In May 2022, the village officially reclaimed its ancestral name of Daajing Giids, which translates to "the hat of a chief's child"

two wooden house/shops. One labelled Isabel Creek Store
Daajing Giids Village

Village Centre

This was the only place I visited where the tourism focus was clearly noticeable, with souvenir and boutique shops, multiple restaurants, and cozy cafés. We enjoyed browsing in the shops and people-watching while we sipped our coffee. The exteriors of the buildings are attractive with murals, funky signage, and architectural design.

a brightly coloured mural covering the entire side of a building depicting a goddess type character and a stylized hummingbird head
A shop mural in Daajing Giids

Daajing Giids Visitor Centre

The Visitor Centre at Daajing Giids is where you can book excursions, get expert advice, check out the touch tanks in their saltwater aquarium, and walk through two galleries of modern Haida art. You'll also want to visit their gift shop to find unique gifts crafted by local makers.



Ask about their self-guided walks. The enthusiastic young employee encouraged us to follow the Historic Walk along the waterfront. Take time to stop at the little park beside the Visitor Centre. A sculpture of a whale's tail will attract your eye, and the benches placed to take advantage of the spectacular views of Skidegate Inlet are a great place to eat some ice cream on a sunny day.

A sculpture of a humpback whale as if it was coming out of the water
Humpback Whale Sculpture outside the Visitor Centre

Restaurants and Cafés

The Nook Coffee Shop

We picked up morning coffee and treats at this Grab & Go cafe in the heart of the village. There was a good assortment of treats to choose, and the coffee was smooth and tasty.


Dockside F&C

A line formed in front of this small fish and chips stand on the docks. We didn't order here, but the servings looked perfectly cooked and generous.


A sign advertising the restaurant with a logo of a great blue heron beside dock pilings
image credit: Dockside F&C Facebook
Sapporo Japanese Restaurant

The exterior of this family-owned restaurant, situated in a strip mall, is not very appealing, and it's a bit of a walk from the village, but it's well worth it. The decor is a chaotic mix of Japanese symbols, anime icons, and left-over Christmas baubles, but the tables are full of locals, which is always a good sign.

the interior of a restaurant with japanese banners and a sushi bar
Sapporo Restaurant image credit Sapporo Restaurant

I ordered the Chicken Teriyaki Lunch Box ($17). My friend had the Salmon Teriyaki Box ($19). The quality and quantity of food and service was top-notch. We enjoyed our meal so much that we made a second trip. Unfortunately, they were closed (Wednesday). On their open days, they close for a few hours in the late afternoon before reopening for dinner service. Unexpected weekday closures were fairly common during my visit in late July. Local business owners seem to choose a couple of days in the early part of the week as their "weekends." It is a good idea to check operating days/hours before arriving.


Sleeping Beauty Trail

The Sleeping Beauty Trail (Kuu Jad TlldaGaaw K’yuu) is one of the best-known Haida Gwaii hikes for experienced hikers. It is challenging but the breathtaking 360-degree views from the summit are worth the struggle. The last part of the hike, after the lake, is a real scramble that made me question my life choices.

a summit view looking down a mountain to Skidegate Inlet. A small round lake is in the foreground
Sleeping Beauty Trail view

The trailhead is about 11 kilometres east of Daajing Giids. The Forestry Service Road to the trailhead is a bit intimidating and should probably be avoided by smaller vehicles. There is a small parking lot at the trailhead. My round-trip hike took me about 4.5 hours, with plenty of breaks to catch my breath. My thighs complained for a couple of days.


Tlell

Traditionally, the Haida gathered in Tlell during the summer before joining canoe armadas to travel to the mainland. The natural surroundings continue to attract beachcombers, hikers, fishers, and birders. We were told that Tlell is a haven for artists and decided to check out some of the galleries in the area.

a small and calm river with a wide stony bank
Tlell River
Crystal Cabin Gallery

The Crystal Cabin Gallery is a small family-owned gallery and shop. Inside is a huge selection of crystals, stones, jewellery, and other Haida art. Outside is the fascinating Tlell Stone Circle, created by the current owner's father. The Stone Circle is 8 pieces of local rock carefully placed in spiritual and astronomical alignment.



Sitka Cottage and Studio

Art enthusiasts might be interested in booking Sitka Cottage as a base for exploring Graham Island. The cottage is a cute, compact but fully-equipped holiday rental. Part of the Tlell River flows through the grounds and visitors will enjoy the private and peaceful yard with a treehouse that looks like the perfect place to read a book on a rainy day.

a large painted gnarled wooden sphere painted to look like a pumpkin
Outside Sitka Studio

Across the road from the Crystal Cabin Gallery, Sitka Studio is a gallery featuring works by local artists and books and music supplies. You can't miss the humpback whale skeleton mounted next door to the studio.

a large skeleton mounted on wooden poles in a garden
Humpback Whale Skeleton (on private property)

Port Clements

Before European contact, the Haida people inhabited Haida Gwaii, including the area now known as Port Clements. They had a deep connection to the land and sea, relying on its resources for survival and cultural practices. The Haida left their mark on the landscape through their art, architecture, and spiritual beliefs.


In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, European settlers arrived on Haida Gwaii, drawn by the region's abundant natural resources. Port Clements was established in 1907 by Eli Tingley, a pioneer who recognized the area's potential for logging and other industries. The town grew rapidly, becoming a center for timber production and fishing.


Today, Port Clements is a smaller community, but it retains its historical charm. The town's waterfront, with its historic wharf, offers stunning views of the surrounding waters. The Port Clements Museum provides insights into the town's rich history, showcasing artifacts and photographs that tell the story of its past.


The Bayview Market

The Bayview Market is my favourite grocery and everything store. Every employee greeted us warmly and offered help and suggestions. The in-store bakery (and sandwich counter) and fresh produce were outstanding. I recommend this store for the self-catering visitors to the island.


The Port Clements Museum

The Port Clements Museum houses a collection of artifacts, photographs, and exhibits with a strong focus on industrial machinery. A cherished exhibit is the taxidermied White Raven, which was once a big attraction and town mascot. Admission for adults is $5, while children 12 and under get free admission.


The Axe and Anchor Pub

The reviews for the Axe and Anchor Pub, located on the waterfront next to the piers, were outstanding, so we planned to stop for a meal and beverage. Expect a casual atmosphere and excellent meal on their patio, which locals boast has the best sunset views on the island. I still dream of the shrimp and crab dip I ordered. My friend raved about the Tuna Poke Stack for at least a week!


Golden Spruce Trail

The Golden Spruce, known to the Haida people as Kiidk'yaas, was a unique Sitka spruce tree with a genetic mutation that caused its needles to be a striking golden colour. It stood on the banks of the Yakoun River on Haida Gwaii, a sacred land for the Haida people.

the author standing in front of the base of a huge cedar tree
The giant cedars whisper to the Haida

According to legend, a young boy disobeyed his grandfather and disrespected the forest. As punishment, the young lad was transformed into a tree. Sadly, in 1997, a forestry worker felled the Golden Spruce, causing widespread grief and outrage. Despite this tragic event, the Golden Spruce's legacy lives on, inspiring art, poetry, and environmental activism.

A wooden interpretive plague honouring the Yakoun River
Interpretive Signage
I AM THE YAKOUN RIVER. THE LARGEST IN HAIDA GWAII
IN MY WATERS SWIM ALL SPECIES OF SALMON, INCLUDING SOCKEYE, CHUM, COHO, PINK, AND CHINOOK.
IN MY WAKE, CEDAR-CARVED CANOES DRIFT
I LOOK AFTER THE HAIDA; I FEED THEIR FAMILIES, NOURISH THEIR FORESTS, AND ENTERTAIN THEIR CHILDREN.
IN RETURN, THEY GATHER ON MY BANKS TO SHARE THEIR CATCH WITH A COMMUNAL FEAST.
THE FISH RETURN TO THE RIVER TO COMPLETE THE CIRCLE OF LIFE.
I AM GENEROUS AND PLENTIFUL. THE HAIDA HAVE FISHED MY WATERS SINCE TIME IMMEMORIAL. THEY FISH HERE NOW. THEIR DESCENDANTS WILL FISH HERE IN THE FUTURE.

The Golden Spruce Trail is a short, wide path that winds its way through a beautiful moss-covered forest featuring awe-inspiring old-growth red cedar and Sitka Spruce. I really enjoyed the informative plaques written in the voice of the forest, cedar trees, the Yakoun River, and Kiidk'yaas, the Golden Spruce. Wanting to learn more, I picked up John Vaillant's book The Golden Spruce.



At the end of the “official” trail at the Golden Spruce viewing point, a trail marker warns that the rest of the trail is not maintained. The trail is fairly easy to follow until it leads to a grassy area and sandbank.


Final Thoughts

Haida Gwaii is a place where ancient history meets modern adventure. From the sacred lands of Dajiing Giids to the serene beauty of Tlell and the historic charm of Port Clements, this archipelago offers a unique and unforgettable experience. Whether you're seeking cultural immersion, outdoor exploration, or simply a peaceful retreat, Haida Gwaii has something for everyone. Discover the magic of this extraordinary place and create memories that will last a lifetime.

fallen, mossy trees beside a calm river
Golden Spruce Trail

If you enjoy the content and would like to be kept up to date with new posts, become a member/subscribe (it's free!) and follow along on the RamblynJazz Facebook pageFacebook GroupBlueSkyPinterestTwitter, and Instagram. You can help the blog grow by sharing the link with a travelling friend or through social media. I truly appreciate your comments and encourage you to share your thoughts below.


If you are interested in purchasing high-resolution copies of the photos in this post, contact me at ramblynjazz@gmail.com

11 Comments


bidishacharya
a day ago

Another lovely guide from Haida Gwaii. The village and the murals look lovely. Also, I love the view of the Sleeping Beauty Trail - definitely something I'd love to do in the future. I am fan of these beautiful trees with so much moss in them - feels like raw nature. The food guide was amazing as well. :)

Like

Pam
3 days ago

I love learning about this region from your posts. I"d love to stay at Sika Cottage and learn about the art of the region. You can really tell the love of the area by the artists. Absolutely beautiful.

Like

Sleeping Beauty Trail. That's where I'd need to visit. What an amazing view... although sounds like a bit of effort to get there, but I'm up for the challenge. The towns and communities look really nice to explore, and you really don't seem to have had any issues finding good food. I knew about the Haida Gwaii name change but not about other places there, so that's a good learning for me

Like

Sleeping Beauty trail was worth the effort (and aches) but I enjoyed the Golden Spruce trail more for the cultural connections. I loved the interpretive signage and giant trees. I hadn't expected much from the culinary scene but that was a mistake. On my next visit I will seek out more of the foraging-influenced experiences.

Like

This truly looks like a very relaxing place to visit that offers a bit of a spiritual element. The murals are always nice to look at, and your photo of the shop mural almost blends in perfectly with the rest of the landscape. Port Clements would interest me for its small village charm in the local market and pub, but also the Port Clements Museum and the scenery of the Golden Spruce Trail. Looks like a great place to visit for sure.


www.redsolotraveler.com

Like
Post: Blog2 Post
bottom of page