Haida Gwaii Travel Guide: Exploring Tow Hill
Updated: Nov 21
Haida Gwaii, a remote archipelago off the coast of British Columbia, is a place of breathtaking natural beauty and rich cultural heritage. With its towering cedar forests, pristine beaches, and fascinating history, Haida Gwaii offers every visitor a unique and unforgettable experience. In this post, we'll explore the wonders of Tow Hill in Naikoon Provincial Park.
Tow Hill is where the veil between the human and spiritual worlds thins. Nature and spirituality intertwine, creating a frisson of awareness of the Haida connection to this mystical place. Visitors to the island's ancient forests, pristine beaches, and rugged coastlines can't help but feel a deep connection to the supernatural world. The towering cedar trees, the crashing waves, and the stunning views demand contemplation and introspection.
Table of Contents
Getting to Tow Hill, Naikoon Provincial Park, Haida Gwaii
In a previous post, Planning A Visit to Haida Gwaii, I discussed how to get to Haida Gwaii and some of the pre-trip planning you'll need to visit this remote location. You'll also want to check out my posts Exploring Skidegate and Exploring Masset for inspiration on why Haida Gwaii should be on your travel bucket list.
To get from Masset to Tow Hill, you'll take Towhill Rd, a 25 km drive that should take about 28 minutes. The drive is mostly on paved roads, but once you get into Naikoon Provincial Park there are some gravel/mud sections, so you will want to drive slowly and carefully. The road is quite narrow in some places, so be sure to pass other vehicles carefully.
The drive through the tall trees is quite spectacular. Thick clumps of moss cling to the branches of towering trees, often resembling the creatures and spirits of the land.
Ensure you have a full gas tank, as there are no gas stations along the way. Be aware that there is no cellular connection, so you must download any maps you want when in the park.
Exploring Around Tow Hill
Tow Hill, a prominent volcanic plug, is located on the northern tip of Naikoon Peninsula in Haida Gwaii. It is known for its distinctive basalt columns, which were formed millions of years ago. For the Haida people, Tow Hill holds deep spiritual significance. It is believed to be the resting place of a legendary whale, and the surrounding area is imbued with stories of mythical creatures and supernatural forces.
There are several Haida legends associated with Tow Hill. One of the most well-known stories tells of a supernatural being named Tow, who lived at the top of the hill and terrorized residents, even eating their children. Hopi, a young Haida man, devised a plan to defeat the monstrous Tow. He used his wits to outsmart the creature, eventually driving Tow to its death.
Another legend connects the blowhole at the base of the hill to the story of a woman and a killer whale. The powerful force of the water expelled from the blowhole is said to represent the strength and power of the sea.
The Tow Hill area offers a variety of recreational opportunities for visitors. The short but rewarding hike to the summit provides panoramic views of the surrounding coastline. The beach at the base of the hill features a dramatic geology and a blowhole, where seawater is forced through cracks in the rocks, creating a spectacular display.
The area is also home to diverse wildlife, such as sea lions, whales, and a variety of bird species. For those seeking a more leisurely experience, the nearby Agate Beach Campground offers a tranquil setting for camping, fishing, crabbing, and beachcombing.
Accommodations
There are some vacation rentals along Tow Hill Road but the accommodations closest to Tow Hill are the two drive-in campgrounds, Misty Islands and Agate Beach, and the longhouses at Hl'yaalan (alternate spelling Hiellen) Village.
Hl'yaalan Village Longhouses
Hiellen Longhouse Village offers seven traditional-style Haida longhouse cabins and the main Haida longhouse. Every longhouse has been carefully designed and built to provide comfortable and cozy pet-friendly accommodations with a queen bed and a single bunk bed equipped with sleeping bags and pillows. Small longhouses include a gas stove, small fridge, cooking utensils, a three-piece bathroom, a barbeque and a wood-burning fireplace.
Small Longhouses: $200 per night 4+ people
Group Longhouses: $400 per night 20+ people
Tent Sites $20 per night
RV Sites $40 per night
The site continues to be developed, with on-going construction (July 2024). I did not stay here, but I enjoyed walking through the grounds and admiring the beautiful totem, which I will discuss in greater detail later in this post.
Agate Beach Campground Review
I chose to stay at Agate Beach Campground, as Masset locals highly recommended it.
🏕️ 🏕️ 🏕️ 🏕️ 🏕️ Location
Agate Beach Campground is located near Tow Hill. This first-come-first-serve campground is open year-round. All sites back onto the beautiful and rocky North Beach, covered with agates. To distinguish an agate from a standard rock, look for smooth, irregular stones that are somewhat translucent with pockmarks. The campground is known to be windy, and fog is common.
🏕️ 🏕️ 🏕️ 🏕️ Amenities
Agate Beach Campground has picnic tables, fire pits, outhouses, drinking water and a roofed kitchen shelter. There are no showers or power outlets. Signs warn about poor drinking water quality. Although locals told us they drink the water, I recommend taking water with you. The cash-only fee of $18 is only collected during peak season from June - September.
The kitchen shelter is well-stocked with seasoned firewood, and the woodstove becomes a fabulous place to warm up and meet fellow campers on chilly, wet days. Here, fellow campers share a card game, read, and quietly chat about their adventures. There are plenty of places to string a line to dry out any wet clothes or sleeping bags.
Not only is there the incredible beach that will encourage hours of walking and beachcombing but there are also many deer trails to explore. Be aware that these deer trails are not marked and can be very wet and muddy.
🏕️ 🏕️ 🏕️ Campsites
All the campsites back onto North Beach have incredible views of the Dixon Entrance, which separates Haida Gwaii from Alaska at the panhandle. The sites are suitable for small campers and tents. They are level but narrow, with little privacy between neighbours.
🏕️ 🏕️ 🏕️ 🏕️ Noise Levels
The constant and soothing sound of waves hitting the shore, interspersed with the calls of ravens and eagles, mask any sounds from the surrounding campsites. Most campers retreat to their beds early since night can be chilly and wet.
Things to do at Tow Hill
North Beach Wanderings
The beaches around Tow Hill are perfect for beachcombing, where you can search for agates and other treasures washed ashore. You may also spot wildlife, including sea lions, whales, and various bird species.
I was fascinated by the rock formations on the beach, which resembled the rib bones of mystical ancient creatures.
The area's waters are ideal for kayaking and paddleboarding. You can also explore hidden coves and spot marine life.
Fishing and crabbing are also very popular along North Beach.
Tow Hill Viewpoint Trail
The Tow Hill Viewpoint Trail is a short, sometimes steep, but rewarding hike leading to stunning panoramic coastline views. Due to its steep sections and uneven terrain, the trail is generally considered moderately challenging. It's approximately 2.25 kilometres round trip and typically takes about an hour (unless you are like me and stop to take many photos).
The trail includes a rough boardwalk with stairs on the steepest sections. Along the route, signage explains the trail's geology and ecology, complete with the Haida legends associated with the area.
After reaching the top, you'll be rewarded with breathtaking views of the rugged coastline, the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean, and the unique volcanic formations of Tow Hill itself. On a clear day, you may even be able to spot distant islands and, further in the distance, the Alaskan mainland.
Blowhole Viewpoint
The blowhole is a fascinating geological phenomenon that occurs when seawater is forced through cracks in the coastal rock formations. As waves crash against the shore, water is channelled into underground cavities, building up pressure. When the pressure reaches a certain point, the water is expelled forcefully through a narrow opening, creating a dramatic geyser-like eruption.
The sight of the blowhole in action is truly awe-inspiring. As the waves crash against the shore, the water surges through the rock, and a powerful jet of seawater is propelled high into the air. The sound of the rushing water and the mist created by the spray adds to the overall spectacle, making it a memorable experience.
The best time to view the blowhole is during high tide or on days with a strong swell. These conditions create the ideal environment for the water to build up pressure and be forcefully expelled through the rock formation.
It's also worth noting that the intensity of the blowhole can vary depending on the weather conditions. Stormy weather can produce more powerful eruptions, while calmer conditions may result in a more subdued display.
Take time to explore the tide pools full of tiny fish and crabs, anemones, and sea grasses.
Rose Spit
A common saying in Haida Gwaii states, “Where your world ends, ours begins.” According to Haida legend, Rose Spit is where life began when a raven broke open a clam shell to release the first humans.
This pristine sandspit, accessible from Tow Hill, invites visitors to explore at their own pace. Walk along the beach from Tow Hill for about 7 kilometres. Due to its length and sandy beach, this route is generally considered moderately challenging and takes an average of 4 hours to complete out and back. It's a great place to catch a crab for dinner after your long walk.
This route is lightly explored. We encountered a few walkers and were passed by a couple of groups of ATV riders, but we were generally alone for most of the walk. There is no road access, but during low tide and weather permitting, those with a 4-wheel drive vehicle or an ATV can drive on the beach. It would be best to join a tour to ensure safe conditions while driving on the beach. Remember, if you run into problems, you will have no way of contacting anyone for assistance due to a lack of cellular connection.
It would also be a good idea to check tide tables to ensure you arrive during low tide to enjoy the full effect.
The Totem at Hl'yaalan Village
Hl'yaalan Village (alternate spelling Hiellen) is an ancient village site. For many generations, it was a strategic location for the Haida people, offering resources and defensive advantages to village residents against intruders. The village also hosted an elaborate fort. Haida and Tshimshian oral histories include stories about the village and its battles.
Today, the site is a locally owned business with longhouse-style lodgings for tourists. The main totem pole at Hl'yaalan Village is a masterful carving adorned with figures telling the stories of creation, power, and transformation.
Totem poles serve as powerful symbols and functional elements in Haida culture. They are typically carved from red cedar and adorned with intricate designs representing family crests, mythological figures, and historical events. Totems visually identify family. clan identity and social status and/or tell historical and spiritual stories. They also serve as community markers and mortuary poles.
Master carver Kilthguulans Christian White carved the new totem at Hl'yaalan Village from a 600-year-old red cedar. It stands more than 15 metres tall (above ground) and is read from the bottom to the top.
This totem starts with the Great Hunter being embraced by his wife, a female Grizzly bear. The eyes of the bear (strength, power, transformation) include faces intended to be the reflections of the viewers. Next are some butterflies, beavers, bear cubs, and hawks. The frogs above the hawks symbolize fertility, abundance, and water. Close to the top is the trickster raven, recognized as a creator and messenger. At the very top is a Watchman, a Haida guardian tasked with protecting the Haida people and lands.
Final Thoughts
Haida Gwaii is a place where the natural world and human history intertwine, creating a truly magical experience. Tow Hill, with its stunning landscapes, rich cultural heritage, and spiritual significance, is a must-visit destination for anyone seeking adventure, tranquillity, and a deeper connection to the natural world.
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It is lovely how you captured (and continue to do so) the natural beauty of Haida Gwaii. Such an amazing adventure and an incredible destination. I really loved the picture of the tall trees on the sides of the road.
My mouth dropped when I saw the shot you were able to take of the totem at Hl'yaalan Village, impressive! I would definitely check out the Tow Hill Viewpoint Trail, especially just to get that view! Looks like a really nice place to visit.
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In a previous post I had already commented on the beauty of one of the photos you had included to illustrate Tow Hill.
The beauty of the place is truly enchanting, the breathtaking lanscapes, the raw nature, the mysticism created by the fog, the wild beaches.
All of this combined with the cultural richness and in harmony with it, makes the place unmissable!
I am delighted to read another post on this region.
The moss on the trees in the photograph of Tow Hill Road is absolutely beautiful. I’d love to visit the National Park and hike to the summit.
I agree with you that the rock formations on the beach are fascinating. I also thought the colour of the stones were interesting. Some almost look blue. The artwork on the signs is brilliant. I love how much you appear to learn about the Hadia Nation continuously here.
All the photographs of the beach are amazing - from the marine life to the sand to the wrecks to the sea. I know I’d enjoy a walk here as I love beaches.
However, I…
Looks like you and Wanda found a great place to rest your legs/wheels with that campsite. Anywhere you can go to sleep with the sounds of the ocean would be magical. Not as magical as those moss creatures though - they definitely had me fooled. The totem poles are beautiful too. What a fabulous area to explore at your own pace