Van Life in Andalusia: Discovering the Rock of Gibraltar
- Lyn (aka Jazz)
- Jun 30
- 11 min read
My Andalusian campervan adventure has been nothing short of spectacular, winding me through a tapestry of Spanish culture and breathtaking landscapes. I had already explored the vibrant streets of Seville, savoured the sherry in Jerez, soaked up the coastal charm of Cadiz, marvelled at the dramatic Puente Nuevo in Ronda, discovered the unique cave houses of Setenil de las Bodegas, enjoyed the bustling beaches of Malaga, and experienced the glitz of Marbella. Each stop has added another unforgettable chapter to our journey, filling our days with new sights, sounds, and flavours, but today I was heading for The Rock of Gibraltar, a stop I had been anticipating for years.
As my wheels turned south, a new and intriguing destination loomed on the horizon: Gibraltar. This iconic British Overseas Territory, a tiny speck of land with a colossal history, promised a stark contrast to the Spanish towns I'd grown to love. The anticipation was palpable as I approached the border, eager to immerse myself in its unique blend of cultures and explore the legendary Rock.
Join me as I recount my two fascinating days in Gibraltar, from the quirky border crossing to encounters with its famous residents, and a deep dive into its incredible natural and man-made wonders.
Table of Contents
Conquering the Rock of Gibraltar
Arrival & Border Crossing
Finding parking in La Linea de la Concepción (the Spanish city bordering Gibraltar) was my first task. I managed to snag a spot on a quiet residential street just off the main road, where parking was thankfully free. From there, it was a pleasant walk along the waterfront towards Border Control. The experience of walking into another country is always unique, and Gibraltar's border is no exception. At the time of my visit in April 2025, all visitors were required to present their passports at the border control station between Gibraltar and La Linea de la Concepcion. Once through the building, you have the option of walking directly into the city across the famous airport runway. I, however, had decided to take a taxi tour, which conveniently picked up passengers right from the border control area. Little did I know, I would end up walking across that very runway three times over my two-day visit!
It's also worth remembering that as a British Territory, Gibraltar is part of the United Kingdom, and the currency used is British Pounds Sterling (£). While some shops and establishments might accept Euros, this is generally the exception rather than the rule, so it's wise to have pounds on hand for your visit.
Given Gibraltar's dramatic geography – essentially a massive limestone rock rising sharply from the sea – prepare for plenty of uphill climbs and steep descents. Good, sturdy walking shoes are an absolute necessity if you plan to explore on foot, as the terrain can be challenging. Furthermore, the weather on the Rock can be incredibly fickle; during my visit, I experienced everything from heavy fog and clear skies to torrential rain and scorching sun, sometimes all within the space of an hour! The winds were strong both days, so the Cable Car wasn't operating. Layering your clothing is recommended.
Gibraltar at a Glance
This tiny British Overseas Territory occupies an incredibly strategic position at the southernmost tip of the Iberian Peninsula, effectively guarding the entrance to the Mediterranean Sea. Its location alone hints at its dramatic past.
Gibraltar boasts a rich and often contested history, marked by numerous sieges and its enduring importance as a military stronghold. From ancient myths to pivotal moments in world wars, the Rock has played a significant role on the global stage. Today, modern Gibraltar is a fascinating blend of British charm and Mediterranean flair. It's a bustling hub renowned for its duty-free shopping, a bustling port, and a unique array of natural attractions, all situated on this remarkable limestone promontory.
Day One: The Rock Tour Experience
My taxi tour was in a comfortable small van, shared with four other passengers, and lasted almost three hours. Our knowledgeable driver navigated the winding roads up the Rock, stopping at key points of interest. Passengers had the flexibility to either complete the entire trip, which would take us right back to Border Control, or, like me, choose to leave the tour at the World War II Tunnels and make our way back down to the lower city, allowing for more independent exploration.
Pillars of Hercules
Our first significant stop on the tour was the iconic Pillars of Hercules. Standing at this mythical gateway, where ancient mariners believed the world ended, was truly awe-inspiring. The views were simply stunning, stretching across the Strait of Gibraltar to the distant, hazy outlines of Africa. It was a powerful reminder of this region's historical significance as a crossroads of continents and cultures.
St. Michael's Cave
Next, we descended into the breathtaking natural grotto of St. Michael's Cave. This incredible cavern, carved out by millennia of water erosion, is adorned with impressive stalactites and stalagmites that create a truly otherworldly landscape. It's not just a natural wonder; the main chamber is often transformed into a spectacular concert venue, thanks to its incredible acoustics.
Inside, I was treated to a stunning light show within the main chamber. This captivating display used vibrant colours and intricate patterns to illustrate the geological processes that led to the formation of these magnificent caves, making the experience both beautiful and educational.
As iI stepped back outside, the rain was coming down in sheets but the guide assured us that it would clear in about 5 minutes -- he was right!
Skywalk and Top of the Rock Monkeys
Our journey continued upwards to the Skywalk and Top of the Rock, which offered some of the most panoramic views of the entire trip. Stepping onto the glass Skywalk felt like floating above the world, with incredible vistas stretching out in every direction – the Mediterranean Sea, the Spanish mainland, and the distant African coast.
Of course, no visit to the Top of the Rock is complete without an encounter with Gibraltar's most famous residents: the Barbary Macaques. These mischievous monkeys are incredibly accustomed to people, and their playful antics are a constant source of entertainment.
While we were admiring the views, one particularly bold macaque decided to get up close and personal, actually climbing inside our taxi! It was a moment of hilarious surprise and shows how comfortable these creatures are around human visitors.
Great Siege Tunnels
From the dizzying heights, we delved deep into the Rock's military past by exploring the Great Siege Tunnels. This incredible network of tunnels was carved out by hand during the Great Siege of 1779-1783, a remarkable feat of 18th-century military engineering and human perseverance. Walking through these narrow, winding passages, it was easy to imagine the soldiers who toiled and fought within these very walls, thanks to the displays that included model figures and excellent information boards.
The tunnels offer fascinating insights into the strategies and daily lives of those defending Gibraltar. Highlights included the various gun emplacements, carved directly into the rock face, which provided strategic firing positions against invading forces. It was an astonishing display of ingenuity and sheer determination, showcasing how the Rock itself became an impenetrable fortress.
Because I knew I would want to spend more time here than the tour allowed, I decided to leave the tour at this point and follow the road down into the city, finding my path to other interesting sights along the way.
World War II Tunnels
The World War II Tunnels are an extensive and modern underground city carved into the Rock. As I walked through these vast tunnels, it was clear that this was a crucial nerve center during WWII, housing everything from hospitals and command centers to barracks and supply depots. The sheer scale of this subterranean world was astounding, highlighting Gibraltar's vital role in controlling the Mediterranean during the war.
Exploring these tunnels offered a chilling glimpse into the strategic planning and immense effort that went into defending this key outpost. The highlights included seeing the various chambers and installations, many still equipped with original artifacts and displays that brought the wartime experience to life.
As a Canadian, I was moved to see a tribute to the Canadian forces that served here during World War II and learn about Canada's significant contribution to the war effort in this region.
City Under Siege Exhibition
My next task was to continue to make my way down to the lower city. This proved to be a steep descent, involving plenty of stairs once I reached the more urbanized sections of the Rock. The walk offered fantastic views of the city sprawling below and the sparkling waters of the bay, a well-deserved reward for the effort.
On my way down, I made a point of stopping at the City Under Siege Exhibition, which provided a deeper dive into Gibraltar's military past, particularly focusing on the Great Siege. This exhibit is a fascinating complement to the tunnels, offering a comprehensive look at the challenges faced by those defending the Rock who did not live in the tunnels. Visitors will find a collection of artifacts, historical documents, and engaging displays that vividly portray life during the sieges. You can see period uniforms, weaponry, and even models depicting the fortifications and battle strategies. It truly brought the historical narratives to life and offered a profound understanding of Gibraltar's enduring resilience.
The Moorish Castle
Just above the modern city, I encountered the imposing Moorish Castle, a striking monument to Gibraltar's long and complex history. Dating back to the 8th century, this medieval fortress was initially built by the Marinid dynasty and served as a vital stronghold during centuries of Moorish rule. Though much of it lies in ruins, the Tower of Homage and parts of the Gate House remain.
Walking around the castle grounds, I was struck by the strategic position it held, offering commanding views over the city, the bay, and the Strait. Visitors can explore the preserved sections, including the impressive Tower of Homage.
Evening Departure & Accommodations
As the afternoon drew to a close, it was time to leave Gibraltar for the night. This meant another walk across the famous airport runway, a truly unique experience that never quite lost its novelty. At the Spanish border, I once again presented my documents to the officials before making my way back to the campervan.
For my accommodation, I had found a real gem in La Linea de la Concepción: Camping SurEuropa. It's run by a wonderful local group dedicated to supporting and employing individuals with disabilities, which immediately made it feel special. The campground itself was fully accessible and boasted fantastic amenities, including hot showers, laundry areas (complete with drying racks), and even recreational activities. Plus, its proximity to the beach was an added bonus, making it the perfect peaceful retreat after a day of exploring the Rock.
Day Two: Exploring the Modern City
My second day in Gibraltar began much like the first, with me parking the campervan on the Spanish side in La Linea and embarking on yet another walk across the airport runway into the territory. After clearing border control, I made my way towards the city center. Just past the runway, I paused to admire the "Cradle of History," a monument that visually represents Gibraltar's diverse past.
From there, I continued through the historic Landport Tunnel, the only land entrance into Gibraltar's old town, which allowed me to imagine I was stepping through a gateway into another world.
Grand Casements Square
My priority was breakfast, and I found the perfect spot in the charming Grand Casemates Square. This expansive square, once a parade ground and site of public executions, is now a bustling hub of cafes, restaurants, and shops, serving as the northern entrance to Main Street. Enjoying a delicious breakfast at the Gibraltar Bakery, I soaked in the lively atmosphere, watching locals and tourists alike begin their day in this historic yet vibrant setting.
From Grand Casemates Square, I embarked on a leisurely wander along Main Street, Gibraltar's bustling commercial heart. This lively thoroughfare is a pedestrian-only street, making for a wonderfully relaxed and enjoyable stroll free from the noise and bustle of traffic. Lined with buildings showcasing a blend of British and Mediterranean architectural styles, Main Street is where the pulse of modern Gibraltar truly beats.
The King’s Chapel
The King's Chapel, originally part of a Franciscan friary dating back to the 1530s, holds significant historical weight. After the British captured Gibraltar in 1704, it was converted for Anglican use and became the principal church for the British Army. Despite suffering damage during the Great Siege and a later explosion, it has been beautifully restored and continues to serve the British Armed Forces to this day. Visitors can admire its historic architecture, stained-glass windows, and the various memorials to military personnel and past governors.
The Convent (The Governor’s Residence)
Adjacent to the King's Chapel stands The Convent, a building of immense historical significance and the official residence of the Governor of Gibraltar since 1728. Originally a Franciscan monastery built in 1531, its name reflects its monastic past. After the British takeover, it was appropriated for military and administrative use, eventually becoming the Governor's official home. While much of the building has undergone extensive rebuilding and adaptation over the centuries in Georgian and Victorian styles, it retains elements of its rich past. Today, the Convent continues its role as the Governor's residence, hosting official events and ceremonies, and remains a prominent symbol of British presence and heritage on the Rock.
The Southport Gate
Further along, I encountered the impressive Southport Gate, a historic entry point through the Charles V Wall, one of Gibraltar's 16th-century fortifications. The original gate, built in 1552 during the reign of Emperor Charles V, was later joined by a second gate in 1883 and the wider Referendum Gate in 1967. This cluster of gates served as a crucial defensive point, guarding the southern approach to the city. Its historical significance lies in its role in protecting Gibraltar from various threats over the centuries.
Main Street Shops
What truly caught my eye, however, were the countless high-end shops. From luxury watches and electronics to designer clothing and cosmetics, the duty-free status of Gibraltar meant these shops were packed with tempting goods. I indulged in some window shopping, quickly realizing that my inner miser would never be able to casually drop $800 for a face cream, despite the allure!
Final Thoughts
My two-day journey to Gibraltar was a truly memorable detour on my Andalusian campervan road trip. From the unique border crossings and the fascinating Rock tour, complete with cheeky macaques and impressive tunnels, to the leisurely exploration of its vibrant Main Street and historic landmarks, Gibraltar offered a captivating blend of history, culture, and stunning natural beauty.
As I walked back to the campervan for the final time, reflecting on the sights and experiences, I felt a deep appreciation for this extraordinary corner of the world. But the road beckons! Stay tuned for next week’s blog as I hit the road again for the next leg of my Andalusian van life road trip to the coastal town of Tarifa!
If you enjoy the content and would like to be updated with new posts, become a member/subscribe (it's free!) or follow along on the RamblynJazz Facebook page, Facebook Group, BlueSky, Pinterest, Twitter, and Instagram. You can help the blog grow by sharing the link with a travelling friend or through social media. I truly appreciate your comments and encourage you to share your thoughts below.
If you are interested in purchasing high-resolution copies of the photos in this post, contact me at ramblynjazz@gmail.com
Oh wow, I was not aware that there are quite a few things to do in Gibraltar other than climbing the rock and taking pictures with the tame monkeys. Your buddy looked comfortable and his posing was on point. What a great picture of a core memory. I have also read with great interest the various historical experiences such as the siege tunnel and I am all ears when it comes to the shopping, too.
Carolin | <a href="https://solotravelstory.com/">Solo Travel Story</a>
This article on Gibraltar is interesting. I did not know there was actually a town. I just thought it was a big rock with some historical significance. I had heard about the monkeys though but I had no idea they were so BIG!. Yikes!
I will definitely have to add Gibraltar to my need to visit list.
Thanks for sharing!
I've only seen Gibraltar from a distance on my way to Morocco from Spain - so learning about it here is pretty cool! It's such an interesting mix of UK and Spain. I'd love to do the Rock tour as I'm sure it's seen some incredible history.
𝗜 𝗵𝗮𝘃𝗲𝗻'𝘁 𝗯𝗲𝗲𝗻 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝘄𝗶𝗹𝗹 𝗽𝗿𝗼𝗯𝗮𝗯𝗹𝘆 𝗯𝗲 𝘃𝗶𝘀𝗶𝘁𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗾𝘂𝗶𝘁𝗲 𝘀𝗼𝗼𝗻 𝘀𝗶𝗻𝗰𝗲 𝘆𝗼𝘂 𝗱𝗼𝗻'𝘁 𝗵𝗮𝘃𝗲 𝘁𝗼 𝘀𝗵𝗼𝘄 𝗮 𝗨𝗞 𝘁𝗼𝘂𝗿𝗶𝘀𝘁 𝘃𝗶𝘀𝗮 (𝗳𝗼𝗿 𝗳𝗼𝗹𝗸𝘀 𝗯𝗲𝗹𝗼𝗻𝗴𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝘁𝗼 𝗱𝗲𝘃𝗲𝗹𝗼𝗽𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗻𝗮𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻𝘀). 𝗡𝗼 𝗺𝗼𝗿𝗲 𝗯𝗼𝗿𝗱𝗲𝗿 𝗰𝗼𝗻𝘁𝗿𝗼𝗹 𝗮𝘁 𝗹𝗮𝘀𝘁. 𝗜 𝗮𝗹𝘄𝗮𝘆𝘀 𝘄𝗮𝗻𝘁𝗲𝗱 𝘁𝗼 𝗰𝗿𝗼𝘀𝘀 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗰𝗮𝘁𝘄𝗮𝗹𝗸 𝗮𝗹𝗼𝗻𝗴 𝘁𝗵𝗮𝘁 𝘀𝘁𝗿𝗶𝗽 𝗼𝗳 𝗿𝘂𝗻𝘄𝗮𝘆! 𝗚𝗶𝗯𝗿𝗮𝗹𝘁𝗮𝗿 𝗰𝗮𝗻 𝗳𝗲𝗲𝗹 𝗹𝗶𝗸𝗲 𝘀𝗼𝗺𝗲𝗼𝗻𝗲 𝗵𝗮𝗱 𝗮𝗶𝗿𝗹𝗶𝗳𝘁𝗲𝗱 𝗮 𝗰𝗵𝘂𝗻𝗸 𝗼𝗳 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗨𝗞 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗱𝗿𝗼𝗽𝗽𝗲𝗱 𝗶𝘁 𝗯𝘆 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗠𝗲𝗱. 𝗢𝗵 𝘄𝗵𝗮𝘁 𝗮 𝗹𝗼𝘃𝗲𝗹𝘆 𝗽𝗵𝗼𝘁𝗼 𝗼𝗳 𝘆𝗼𝘂 𝘄𝗶𝘁𝗵 𝗚𝗶𝗯'𝘀 𝗳𝗮𝗺𝗶𝗹𝗶𝗮𝗿 𝗿𝗲𝘀𝗶𝗱𝗲𝗻𝘁 - 𝗵𝗲 𝗸𝗻𝗼𝘄𝘀 𝗵𝗲'𝘀 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝘀𝘁𝗮𝗿. 𝗩𝗮𝗻 𝗼𝗿 𝗻𝗼 𝘃𝗮𝗻, 𝗚𝗶𝗯𝗿𝗮𝗹𝘁𝗮𝗿'𝘀 𝘄𝗼𝗿𝘁𝗵 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗱𝗲𝘁𝗼𝘂𝗿 #𝗳𝗹𝘆𝗶𝗻𝗴𝗯𝗮𝗴𝘂𝗲𝘁𝘁𝗲 🪽🥖
Fickle weather? It must be a British territory! Gibraltar intrigues me. Would you say it felt more British than Spanish? I'd love to explore the tunnels, the history would be one of the things that beckons me the most about Gibraltar. Maybe more than the macaques. As funny as they might be, the idea of one jumping in my taxi is a little much - especially at the size of them. I might skip the high end shopping, but take in the views from the Rock instead. How long did it take you to walk there from where you parked?