White Villages of Spain: Sipping Sherry in Jerez de la Frontera

The scent of orange blossoms was in the air, the vibrant colours of Seville swirling around us, and the promise of adventure hanging sweetly in the breeze. My fantastic travel buddy, Mady, and I were on a delightful 10-day escapade together. This trip was extra special because while Mady would soon return to her responsibilities, my retirement meant the journey would continue solo for a while longer—one of the many perks of a more flexible schedule!

We had already enjoyed a few days in Seville on this particular sun-drenched day. Our sights were now set on the legendary sherry region, and what better way to get there than a day trip that blended transportation to our next stop, Cádiz, with some truly enticing sightseeing? And you know Mady and me – if there's a chance to sample some local vino, we're all in! So, with eager anticipation, we hopped into the tour van, ready to soak in the Andalusian scenery and, most importantly, delve into the fascinating world of sherry in the iconic white village of Jerez de la Frontera.

The courtyard at Bodegas Cayetano del Pino

The Enchanting White Villages

Imagine a landscape dotted with dazzling white jewels, clinging to hillsides like sugar cubes scattered across the beautiful Andalucian landscape. These are the famed "pueblos blancos," the white villages of Andalusia. Steeped in history, many of these settlements trace their origins back to Roman and Moorish times, their winding alleyways and sturdy walls whispering tales of centuries past.   

What truly defines these villages is their distinctive architecture. Brilliant white houses, often adorned with vibrant bursts of geraniums and bougainvillea, contrast with the azure sky. Their practical and picturesque design reflects the region's climate, the whitewash helping keep interiors cool under the scorching Andalusian sun. Narrow, cobbled streets twist and turn unexpectedly, leading to hidden plazas.   

The Alcazar in Jerez

Beyond their visual appeal, the "pueblos blancos" exude an undeniable charm and a slower pace of life. Each village possesses its own unique character, yet they are all united by this shared aesthetic and sense of timeless beauty.

Jerez de la Frontera

Nestled amongst rolling hills and vineyards that stretch as far as the eye can see, Jerez de la Frontera is the heart and soul of sherry production. This Andalusian city has been linked to the production of fortified wine for centuries. The region's unique microclimate, with its hot summers, mild winters, and the influence of the Atlantic winds, combined with the chalky "albariza" soil, creates the ideal conditions for growing the Palomino grape, the base of authentic sherry. This geographical blessing and generations of winemaking expertise have cemented Jerez's global reputation as the sherry capital of Spain.   

The historical connection between Jerez and sherry is a long and fascinating one, dating back to Roman times when wine production first took root in the region. However, during the Moorish rule, the foundations for modern sherry began to take shape. Following the Christian reconquest, the area became known for its "sack" wines, which gained immense popularity in England. Over the centuries, through innovation and dedication, the winemakers of Jerez refined their craft, developing the intricate solera system and the diverse range of sherry styles savoured today.

A historical sherry label featuring Christopher Columbus

Discovering Bodegas Cayetano del Pino

Our tour included visiting the esteemed Bodegas Cayetano del Pino, a winery that resonates with tradition and a deep commitment to the art of sherry making. Stepping through its unassuming doors into a beautiful courtyard felt like entering a sanctuary. This bodega, though perhaps not as widely known as some of the larger houses, boasts a remarkable history and a dedication to producing exceptional sherries with meticulous care. It was precisely the kind of authentic experience Mady and I were hoping for.

Bodegas Cayetano del Pino has a fascinating story dating back to 1882 when Cayetano del Pino y Vázquez founded it. This bodega remains family-operated, reflecting an enduring passion and dedication to quality. This personal touch is evident in every aspect of their operation, from carefully selecting grapes to the patient aging of their wines. The bodega has maintained a relatively small scale, allowing for a focused and hands-on approach to winemaking, which many believe contributes to the character of their sherries.

At the heart of sherry production lies the unique and intricate "solera" system, used by Bodegas Cayetano del Pino. This fractional blending process involves a series of barrels, traditionally arranged in tiers. Younger wines are gradually introduced into the older barrels, ensuring a consistent average age and complexity in the final product. As wine is drawn off for bottling from the oldest barrels (the "solera" itself), it is replenished with wine from the next oldest tier, and so on. This dynamic system, which can take decades to establish and maintain, imparts the distinctive nutty, saline, and often oxidative notes that define fine sherry.

Inside, the barrels are stacked, with each tier's product blended into the tier below.

Bodegas Cayetano del Pino crafts a distinguished range of sherry styles, each with a unique character and profile, nurtured through the meticulous solera process. We were particularly excited to sample the classic expressions that Jerez is famous for: the crisp and dry Fino, aged under a layer of "flor" yeast; the nutty and complex Amontillado, which starts as a Fino and then undergoes oxidative aging; the Palo Cortado, a rare style that combines the aromatic elegance of Amontillado with the richness of Oloroso; and the lusciously sweet Cream sherry, often made by blending Oloroso with Pedro Ximénez.

An Immersive Sherry Tasting Experience

The Bodegas Cayetano del Pino tasting room is located within the same building where the barrels are stacked for blending and aging. The air was cool and carried the subtle, intriguing perfume of aging wood and the distinct nuances of sherry. Our guide explained that the building was designed to take advantage of natural elements to maintain the constant cool temperature needed. High ceilings and vented windows filter breezes from every direction, while the sandy floor can be wetted during the hottest times of the year. Soft light filters through high windows, illuminating rows of dark barrels stacked carefully in long rows. A long, polished wooden table set with elegant tasting glasses stood ready in the tasting area. Large posters depicting important historical moments and beautiful artistic labels used in previous centuries were on the walls.

Our guided tasting experience began with a warm welcome from our knowledgeable host, who expertly navigated us through the nuances of each sherry. Before us, a thoughtfully prepared placemat detailed the four distinct styles we would be sampling: Fino, Amontillado, Palo Cortado, and Cream. Alongside a small bowl of crisp almonds and packages of neutral crackers and crisps were provided, essential tools for cleansing our palates between each sip and to allow the unique characteristics of each wine to truly shine. The presentation was elegant yet unpretentious, setting the stage for a focused and enjoyable exploration of Jerez's liquid treasures.

Our guide's insights into the region's history and the intricate process of sherry production were truly fascinating, deepening our appreciation for the craft. For me, the tasting was a bit of a revelation. While Cream sherry held a nostalgic connection to my mother and had made its annual appearance in our Christmas eggnog, I had always considered sherry generally too sweet for my liking. Discovering the nuanced dryness and complexity of the Fino, Amontillado, and Palo Cortado opened up a whole new world of flavour. I was particularly taken by the crisp, refreshing character of the Fino and made a mental note to seek out a bottle for my own home bar.

Jerez Beyond Sherry

Even with our limited time after the captivating sherry tasting, Jerez offered glimpses of its unique charm beyond the bodegas. The architecture, a harmonious blend of Moorish and Andalusian influences, was evident in the whitewashed walls, intricate ironwork balconies, and the grand silhouette of the cathedral dominating the skyline.

The Cathedral steps

Opting for a stroll around the cathedral plaza and the Alcazar gardens instead of a visit inside allowed us to soak in the city's quiet atmosphere. Locals and visitors alike mingled, enjoying the sunshine and the panoramic views that stretched across the surrounding landscape. This brief immersion reinforced the enchanting allure of the white village setting, where history and everyday life intertwine in a captivating way.

The Moorish fortress

There is much more to explore in Jerez, including a Moorish Fortress, a palace, Arabian baths, and many other bodegas, which I will put on my list for a future visit.

Final Thoughts

Our brief stop in Jerez de la Frontera was a truly enriching experience, a delightful blend of cultural immersion and sensory exploration. Every moment offered a new appreciation for this corner of Andalusia, from the charming white-washed streets to the hallowed Bodegas Cayetano del Pino cellars. The convenience of combining our onward journey to Cádiz with such a flavourful and informative excursion was a definite win, and sharing it all with my friend made it even more special. The world of sherry, once somewhat of a mystery to me, introduced me to the crisp elegance of the drier styles. If you ever find yourself in Andalusia, a pilgrimage to Jerez is an absolute must. Prepare to be captivated by its history, its beauty, and, of course, its sherry – an authentic taste of Spanish sunshine in a glass.

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